70 years of the first ascent of K2. The South Tyrolean Erich Abram as a member of the expedition and decisive helper

The expedition members include 11 of Italy’s best mountaineers, including Erich Abram from Bozen/Bolzano, born in Sterzing/Vipiteno in 1922, who has climbed many first routes in the Dolomites. As a refrigeration specialist – his company builds cold stores for fruit – Abram maintains the oxygen cylinders. Together with Walter Bonatti, another top Italian alpinist, and the local porter Amir Mahdi, he carries the two metal containers, each weighing 18 kg, up to Camp IX at over 8,000 metres. Abram's performance enabled Compagnoni and Lacedelli, who had been selected as first ascenders, to reach the summit.

The alpinists all underwent intensive medical examinations before the expedition and ‘trained’ on Monte Rosa, even in bad weather. Abram also prepared himself in the South Tyrolean mountains - during a winter crossing from the Stelvio Pass to the Ortles at minus 20 degrees, Abram remained unharmed, but his companions suffered severe frostbite.

Abram remained modest – despite the fact that he was the first South Tyrolean alpinist to climb in the Himalayas – and did not take part in the Italian nationalist hype following the summit victory.

The exhibition – a cooperation between TAP and TAP South – shows for the first time photos of the expedition from Erich Abram's private collection, as well as personal postcards and letters in which he describes the situation in the camp and on the mountain, and objects that were ‘with him’ in the Himalayas, such as the pennant of the Hochtouristen-Gruppe Bozen/Bolzano.

Part 1 – The ascent

In contrast to today, where helicopters fly the mountaineers up to the base camp, in 1954 the climbers had to cover an approximately 70 km long, continuously ascending approach and ascent to the base camp at 5,000 metres. As expedition leader Desio wanted to carry as little luggage as possible, he decided to leave the snow goggles behind for the Sherpas and porters due to the already bad weather. However, acute snowfall followed by a sudden spell of fine weather leaves all the porters snow-blind; Erich Abram tries to heal them halfway with ointments. The wearers protest and go back. The snow goggles are brought in and the porters are paid extra. The first quarrel of many on this expedition.

Erich takes intensive care of the oxygen bottles that have been dragged here. The weather is bad for days, even weeks. We have to wait for better conditions, he writes to his loved ones at home. The death of his comrade Mario Puchoz (probably from altitude sickness, with cerebral or pulmonary oedema) shocks the expedition members. A circumnavigation of K2 to find the right route rekindles Abram's love of flying.

Part 2 – The summit victory

Achille Compagnoni’s account of the last part of the ascent to the summit leads to 50 years of discussions and mutual accusations between Walter Bonatti and Compagnoni, until the CAI, on the basis of its own commission in 2007, settles the dispute in favour of Bonatti’s version. According to this version, Compagnoni and Lacedelli had moved Camp IX slightly higher without being asked; as a result, Bonatti and Mahdi had to bivouac in the open at over 8,000 metres without a tent – both survived, although Mahdi suffered most severe frostbite. Abram had already descended beforehand ... and never became involved in the decades-long dispute, but remained a friend to all members of the expedition.

Part 3 – The aftermath

Various invitations and honours follow the summit victory. In mid-1955, the Italian government decides to issue a 25 Lira stamp, which – for unknown reasons – is never printed. A Pakistani stamp does appear.

The expedition members meet every year in autumn, each time organised by a different member – only Bonatti always stays away. 50 years after the first ascent, a big celebration takes place in Cortina d’Ampezzo at Lino Lacedelli’s home – with badges and honours.

None of the expedition members is still alive today. For Erich Abram, it remains the only tour in the Himalayas – after the expedition he sets up the air mountain rescue service in South Tyrol and flies small aeroplanes and helicopters himself, not only in the mountains, but also in desert regions to lay water pipes. He dies in Bozen/Bolzano in 2017 at the age of 94.

The curators

Dr. Richard Piock, born in Meran/Merano, South Tyrol, in 1947, studied commercial sciences in Vienna, CEO of Durst Phototechnik AG from 1986 to 2012, founder of the ‘Vordenken für Osttirol’ initiative, honorary managing director of the regional development company ‘Innos GmbH’ from 2016 to 2021, chairman of TAP and TAP – South (Bruneck/Brunico).

Dr. Martin Kofler, MA, born 1971 in Lienz/East Tyrol; studied history in Innsbruck and New Orleans; director of the newly created Tyrolean Archive of photographic documentation and art (TAP) since 2011.

(Online since 31 July 2024)

Further reading

Abram, Carla/Ladurner, Christian, Höhenflüge. Erich Abram. Südtirol Alpinist und Pilot, Bozen 2020.

Bonatti, Walter, Berge meines Lebens, Zürich 2000.

Ders., K2. La verità, Milan 2007.

Desio, Ardito, The 1954 Italian Expedition to the Karakorum and the Conquest of K2, in: Alpine Journal 1955, 3–16 (https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1955_files/AJ60%201955%203-16%20Desio%20Italian%20Karakorum%20Exped.pdf, 31.07.2024).

Ders., K2 – Zweiter Berg der Erde, München 1956.

Fantin, Mario, K2 Sogno vissuto, Bologna 1958.

Golin, Augusto, Erich Abram. Un alpinista bolzanino/Ein Bozner Bergsteiger, Bozen/Bolzano 2012.

Kammerlander, Hans/Lücker, Walther, K2. Der härteste Berg der Welt. Triumphe, Tragödien und Kontroversen, Salzburg–Wien 2024.

Marshall, Robert, Re-writing the History of K2 – a story all’italiana, in: Alpine Journal 2005, 193–200 (https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2005_files/AJ%202005%20191-200%20Marshall%20K2.pdf, 31.07.2024)

Ders., K2. Lies and Treachery, London 2009.